Hierve el Aqua - Oaxaca

One of my favorite excursions of this trip was a visit to Hierve el Aqua (the water boils).  

First, Frida and I walked to the collectivo stand in Oaxaca city and after asking for directions 5 times, we finally managed to find the collectives heading to Mitla. We jumped into a public taxi and for 35 pesos each, we rode 50 minutes outside of Oaxaca city to the small town of Mitla.

Once in Mitla, we immediately found the "tours" that take you up to Hierve el Aqua. It's really just a few beat up covered trucks that wait around for budget travelers like ourselves. They hold 8-11 people, and if full, you only have to pay 35 pesos roundtrip. We waited for about 45 minutes, and then got too impatient and so bargained with the driver, settling on a 80 peso roundtrip journey.

Off thru the desert we went - up a winding mountain road, hurtling past donkeys and  enormous cacti and kicking up a crazy dust storm. 

The 45 minute ride ended at a small tourist alcove complete with bathrooms, cafes, a few shops, and a few cabanas. We bought water, mezcal, and chips and then walked a short ten minutes to the first cliff.  Hierve el Aqua consists of two rock shelves or cliffs that rise 50-90 meters above the valley. They are created by natural fresh water springs whose water is over-saturated with calcium carbonate and other minerals. As the water meanders over the cliffs, the excess minerals are deposited creating what looks like white petrified waterfalls .

The first cliff, known as Cascada Chica, has 4 springs, 2 artificial pools, and several small natural pools. Here, visitors can "swim" in the water that is said to have healing qualities while looking out over an incredible mountain vista. Due to the various minerals, the water can appear vivid blue or green and is a nice cool temperature. 

Frida and I laid on top of the mountain, sipping mezcal, soaking in the sun, and enjoying the serenity that only comes from a place that is full of incredible natural beauty. I have never seen anything like it before. We cherished our time at Hierve el Aqua and it will always be one of my favorite places in Mexico.

Chiapas Day 1: An Intro to San Cristobal de las Casas

After a short flight from Cancun to Tuxtla Gutierrez, a 30min taxi ride to the bus station and an hour bise ride along a curvy mountain road, Frida and I arrived in San Cristóbal de las Casas just as the sun was beginning to set. I snapped this photo of the cathedral from a taxi on our way to our hostel, Rosco Backpackers. 

San Cristóbal de las Casas is one of Mexico's Pueblo Mágico's - or magical villages. It is 7,200 feet above sea level, nestled in a valley surrounded by hills and forests in the state of Chiapas. It is known as the cultural capital of Chiapas. As I walked the streets, it was easy to see why. Home to indigenous tribes, bohemians, and a myriad of expats that fell in love with the city and decided to call it home, San Cristobal is full of artists and musicians, vibrant colors, delicious food, and a serenity that is only found in valleys.

 I loved meandering thru the cobblestone streets, gazing up at wrought iron terraces and red clay rooftops, and photographing the doorways, houses, and street signs that came in every color, shade, and nuance of the rainbow. 

     

I immediately fell in love with this beautiful city, loving the vibrant colors, myriad of arts, and of course the amazing street food. The zocola and streets are full of cafes, shops, street vendors, and musicians. As the sunset and the weather dropped, we continued to walk the streets, soaking in the sounds, smells, and beauty of San Cristobal. 

So much to be thankful for

 After our trek, visit to Machu Picchu and Jordan's epic LAPT-Peru tournament, we flew home for Thanksgiving. After living so far away from our loved ones for the past few years, these holidays are treasured moments. The highlight was seeing my two adorable nieces, Skylar and Aleli. Skylar is a robust child, full of energy, life, and spunk. She is also, by far, the most stubborn child I have ever met! Aleli is more laid back. She takes in her environment, analyzing her surroundings with the most beautiful blue eyes you have ever seen. But then, all of a sudden, her face will light up with a gorgeous, heart-breaking grin. It's amazing to watch my siblings - now parenting with patience, grace, and above all, laughter. Spending these few precious days with my family fills my heart with pride, joy, love, and gratitude. I can only hope that when its Jordan's and my turn to become parents, we have 1/10 the character, wisdom, and fortitude as Deidre and Alex and Jesse and Kellye.  

The great affair is to move.

These pics are from last week's trip to Cusco, Peru. 

Jordan and I went on a short trek that was mind-blowingly beautiful. We were completely isolated, traveling along dirt paths worn smooth by horses and donkeys, often littered with sheep and llama droppings. Sometimes there was no path. We  traversed up mountains, traipsed down gorges, and even stayed the night in a tent on top a mountain, home to a 700year old Incan temple. At one point, the path clung to the side of a 13,000foot cliff. Looking down, I was terrified - even immobilized by fear and vertigo. To overcome, I shielded my peripheral version and looked across at the majestic vista, clinging to the beauty that I could almost touch. 

I have never been one to let fear hold me back, but then again, I have rarely felt fear as tangibly as I did on that cliffside. I began to wonder, am I more fearful the older I become? I know I am....

Is it because I now intimately and innately realize the delicate balance that lays between life and death, hope and despair, love and hate?  As a child, I never knew to fear death. Never learned to fear much of anything other than disappointing my family. As an adult who has been broken, fragmented, and hurt more times than one could count - I wonder if fear is now an inevitable part of my life? 

No matter how much I did not want to be afraid, I was....Yet by focusing on the beauty, and turning away from the cliffside, I was able to put one foot in front of the other. I was able to continue, and in doing so, I embodied hope.

Toto, we are definitely not in Kansas anymore

Mexican cops make me nervous. They make Jordan nervous. They make everyone nervous.


Yesterday, our power went out. Apparently, we never paid the bill that we didn't receive. #Mexico.

So, Jordan went over to a buddies house to use the internet, borrow some pesos, and pay the bill. As a thank you, he brought a bottle of rum with him. Unfortunately, he forgot to put it in a bag and while walking the 4 blocks to his buddies house, was spotted by the Mexican police. Being the quick thinker that he is, he ran into a nearby bathroom of a pub and stored the bottle under the sink. Then ran home to me. I was told to carry a bag, walk down the street, nonchalantly walk into the men's room of the sidewalk bar and retrieve the stashed booze - all without attracting the police's attention.
Thankfully, they were not standing guard outside the bar, and I was able to slip in and grab the booze, only to be called out by a few dumb gringos sitting at the bar, telling me I went into the wrong bathroom. Thank you for your help kind citizen.
Mission accomplished. It only took about an hour for my heart rate to return to normal.

Global Forum and Kru Nam

Last year my brother invited me to hear David Batstone speak at OSU. Dave told the story of Kru Nam, a modern day artist turned abolitionist who is changing the world, one child at a time. Kru Nam's story was the inspiration - not only for the book, Not for Sale, which became an internation grassroots campaign, but for me. I joined Not for Sale after hearing the story of how one woman was choosing to fight injustice in the world. In that one evening, my life was changed. (Thanks Jesse!!!)

6 months later I had the privilege of traveling to Thailand to visit Kru Nam, JK, and the kids at the compound Not for Sale funded. Fortunately, and unfortunately, Kru Nam is rescuing so many kids that they need more houses, an education center, a bigger kitchen, etc.  NFS promised to do everything we could to raise the money as quickly as possible- which, according to the project proposal was $180,000.
Recently, Kru Nam and JK came to California to talk about their project in Thailand, VCDF, and try and raise money for the additional housing project.

Less than 5 days ago I watched with tears streaming down my face as NFS presented JK and Kru Nam a check for $155,000, with an addition $25,000 on the way. $180,000 -the exact amount of money needed to build a home for children rescued from sex trafficking in Northern Thailand.

(I am crying now as I write this!)


There were so many other incredible moments at the Global Forum.
I got to spend a good bit of time with Kru Nam and JK (JK is not only a translater, but the head of project develepment and funding for VCDF - Volunteers for Childrens Development Fund, the ngo that Kru Nam leads in Thailand that NFS helps support).
JK looks alot like Jesse, is from Ohio, has a dry sense of humor, but the biggest heart in the world. Kru Nam is the most compassionate and couragous woman I have ever met. Sidenote,
I don't know why, but Kru Nam and JK call me Shakira :)
It was unbelievable to get to hang out with a woman that I have admired and heard about, a woman whose legacy inspired me to join the abolitionist movement. I was face to face with my personal hero.  She told me that I have so much inner strength - that I must use my inner strength to fight modern day slavery and keep the movement going. We hugged, she cried, I cried.
Yep, pretty much one of the best days on my life!

strugglin

Man, I am strugglin! I knew that working full time and going to school time was going to be rough, and I knew that I  would be busy, but I never expected this:
I am turning into the biggest bitch! I get so frustrated with people over the littlest things because they are wasting my precious time - then I get mad at myself for being mad, and mad that I am mad that I am mad and I can't seem to let go of this craziness inside!
Seeking some wisdom and advice....

De-moralizing Economies

I am currently reading De-moralizing Economies: African Socialism, Scientific Capitalism, and the Moral Politics of Structural Adjustment by James Ferguson....

"On 12 December 1991, Lawrence Summers, the chief economist of the World Bank )who would go on to serve as U.S. Secretary of the Treasury and is currently the president of Harvard University), sent an internal bank memorandum (later leaked to the press) in which he argued that the export of pollution and toxic waste to the Third World constituted an economically sound, "world-welfare enhancing trade" that should be actively encouraged by the World Bank. " (p70).


WHAT THE HECK!!!!!!

two months too late???

SOOO School started, work is in full swing, Jordan and I have a house guest, and summer has finally come to HMB. Zack and Eve moved to Cambodia, Deidre and Alex had a baby, Jesse started grad school and Kellye graduated and has a new job!

WOWOWOWOWOWO...time never stands still does it?

so Jordan and i went to Hawaii before all the craziness to get some time to just be...it was wonderful! the above picture is us on a dinner cruise (not nearly as fabulous as the one we went on in France w. the Scott's!) The first picture below is from our Zipline adventure....so fun!

 And last, but definitely not least, our helicopter ride!!!!

Fellows Part 1

The past month has been a whirlwind of activity. I returned from Nepal and Thailand, and was thrown into a week of prepping for my first batch of NFS fellows. Most of you know that, although I loved the work that I was doing with NFS, I was disappointed by the lack of infrastructure in the fellowship program. Although it turned out to be a blessing - in that I was hired to lead the program and revamp it, the first few months as a fellow with NFS were definitely trying.
Since July 1st, I have been trying to "revamp" the program. In my mind, I would like to see it take on a more educational focus - with fellowship dues being seen as tuition payments, structured reading materials, and even a "course syllabus" so to speak.
Here is the first month - at a glance.
The beginning of week one was a time to get to know each individual - their expectations of the program, life goals, skills, passions, etc. Mark Wexler and I took them hiking in Muir Woods and then we spent the afternoon at Stinson Beach.
The latter part of week 1 and all of week 2 was an immersion into NFS. Mark Wexler taught several days on the 10,000 ft. perspective of NFS and the movement: an overview of the organization, emphasizing NFS's mission, goals, and values. Our goals is to end slavery in this lifetime. How do we do that? What is Not for Sale's role within the larger movement? Why do we do some things, and not others? How are we going to accomplish our goal?
After the 10,000 ft mountaintop view is hammered home, we can delve into the daily tasks, programs and platforms, and the the overarching mission becomes the guiding point for all that we do. This is key - as  some days and weeks the daily tasks can be quite trying-  sitting at a computer all day, answering emails, doing what can seem to be mundane tasks. But when the mundane tasks are set into the larger perspective and foundation of the mission: To end slavery in this lifetime - then every task is important.

Week 3 and 4 were spent in San Francisco at the Investigator Academy. The first week was led by Dennis Mark, our Chief Investigator - with a focus on sex trafficking. The second week was led by Kilian Moote with a focus on forced labor violations.  As the fellows are car less, I drove them everyday to and from the city. Although this was trying at times, it was wonderful to be a part of their conversations on the way home - listening to what they learned, what they thought, how they felt, etc. Some days they were so overwhelmed that we turned the Beatles on and sang the whole way home. Some days we had great conversations regarding how to raise consumer awareness.
All in all, this has been an exceptional month. I am overjoyed to be working with such a great group of people. They bring enthusiasm and energy to the campaign - and are constantly surprising me with their fervor and dedication. I could not have asked for a better group of fellows!

hiking the Annapurna Circuit

We flew from Katmandu to Pokhara, Nepal for a 5 day trek in the Annapurna Circuit. Our trip was arranged through Three Sisters, a female owned, operated, and managed trekking company. We had 6 porters and one guide with us.
I don't think that my words will accurately convey the beauty - so I will let my pictures do the talking.
The following shots are from the third day -we began at 3:00am in order to ascend Poon Hill in time to watch the sunrise. It was an absolutely magical moment as the sun set the peaks on fire, breathing life, color, and possbility into hearts and minds.

Tini and I at sunrise on Poon Hill (left).
Below: A map of our trek.

more Pashupat - a different side

After watching the cremation process, we walked amoung the pagodas, and up a hill to see the Yogis.

One of them was over 100 years old, and as I stopped to take a picture with him, he wrapped his ancient dreadlocks around my neck. Don't be fooled by my smile - I was freaking out when he put his locks on me. Don't get me wrong, I love dreadlocks, but these locks were pretty gross!

I am not really sure about the history of these Yogi's. They are followers of one of the Hindu gods - I think the elephant god, but I can't be sure. They were pretty charming - in a weird sort of way.

Katmandu - Pashupati

We flew into Katmandu, Nepal and travelled 20 minutes to our hotel, Hotel Tibet. Thomas Kelly, a renowned photographer met us and took us on a tour of the city. 
First stop: the Pashupatinath, or Pashupati, a Hindu temple on the banks of the Bagmati River in Deopatan. It is dedicated to a manifestation of Shiva called Pashupati (Lord of Animals). It is regarded as the most sacred temple of Hindu Lord Shiva in the world. Thousands pilgrim to this temple, known as the "Temple of Living Beings". It's history is shrowded in legends and tales - some say it dates back to the 400AD.

Many ornate pagodas surround the temple which is situationed on the riverbanks of a tributary to the Ganges, the Bagmati river. This is considered a holy area and it is believed that to die and to be cremated here will release one from the cycle of repeated birth and death.The ashes of persons cremated are sprinkled into the waters of the Bagmati, eventually to be carried to the Ganges. 
In the hour that we stood on the banks and watched, we watched the pires be loaded with logs, stuffed with kindling, and bodies burned - then the pires cleared of all remaining ash - and the process repeated again.  

If you look closely at the river, you will see that it is filled with trash, monkeys, and cows. As we stood and watched, smoke and ashes filled our nostrils and covered our sweaty bodies.  Although it is a holy place, I was anxious to leave to river bank and the smell of burning flesh and rotting trash behind.

Thailand Part 1

I arrived safely in Bangkok om July 12th, at 12:00pm after nearly 24 hours of traveling. My hotel is connected to the airport. Its a little shwanky, definitely not my style and 30 minutes from the city! - but the whole group is staying here and it is one of the safest places in the city. After check-in and a quick shower I got a cab into the city.

Zack was right - this is one crazy city! Everyone is going, going, going, buying, selling, swerving, talking, going, going, going. It's the Thai style of New York City.

My first stop was the Grand Palace which was built in 1782 as a complex consisting of the royal residence and halls, as well as government offices and the renowned Temple of the Emerald Buddha. For 150 years it was home to the Thai King and his Royal Court.

First, I bought at 350 baht entrance ticket, then I had to make a 200 baht deposit to borrow a skirt (my cropped pants were too short). Men and women alike need to cover their feet, legs, and arms. Then I was free to amble about the courtyard. Upon entering the temple, everyone must take their shoes off. The Grand Palace is often referred to as the spiritual home of the Thais.

The complex is large, filled with gold covered statues, ornate walls, monuments, etc.

BTW, its 98 degrees and HUMID, so as I was walking around in a state of revelry, sweat was constantly dripping down my face and back.

Next stop was to Wat Pho to see the equally famous Reclining Buddha at the oldest temple in Bangkok. The Reclining Buddha is the largest statue of Buddha (over 150 feet long) in Thailand, and it lays resting on its side with one arm supporting its head, and the other arm laying down by his thighs. Covered in gold plating, the temple seems to glow – if not from the gold, then from his serene face and peaceful nature. The bottoms of his feet are covered in mother of pearl and intricately decorated with 108 auspicious scenes in Chinese and Indian styles. As you walk around his body, there are over 1,000 other pictures of Buddha painted on the walls.

Went to Water Loon, but did not go in as they wanted to charge the foreigner and arm and a leg! So instead I explored a couple of the crazy markets before heading back to the hotel to meet the rest of the group. As luck would have it - they were checking in when I arrived!

So we met up, everyone checked in, then headed to the pool to cool down and relax.

My roommate for the duration of the trip is Christinia Hebets, aka Tini. Also here is Mike Duffy, a prof at USF, David and Zack Batstone, and Kique Bazan.

Okay - gotta run - I am on Tini's computer and we nee to head out. Eating breakfast, then going to the airport to catch a flight to Katmandu. We will stay the night in Katmandu and leave on Monday am for Pokhara - from there we will begin the trek. This is my last time near the Internet for a while.

Love you all!

Kate